Cima di Valcuca (2453 m.), Valasco Slabs

This is a gneiss-granite allowing for good grip, exposed to North-East, so best climbed in summer. After rain the wall can take some time to dry out so it is best to choose a dry period. There are some slabs, walls, cracks and corners so it offers some enjoyable climbing with some quite long routes. Most of the routes are bolted, some have pitons.
Descriptions of the routes can be found at the refuge in 'Cuca Libre' Sensibile and Viberti, in Alpi d'Oc (local mountaineeering magazine)and from Here is a list of the difficulties of the major routes. (Four are missing and we would be grateful for any help).

Routes from left to right:

  1. Lolita, 200m, 6b, Cella, Sensibile, Viberti October 1997
  2. Regina di cuori, 120 m., 6b+, Ronzini, Viberti October 1997
  3. Lady D, 120 m., 6b+, Cella, Ronzini, Sensibile, Viberti October 1997
  4. Impressioni di settembre, 550 m., TD 6b, Cella, Ronzini, Sensibile, Viberti October 1997
  5. Pinacolada, 500 m., TD+ 6b, Ronzini, Sensibile, Viberti October 1997
  6. La paga del sabato, 430 m., TD+ 6b, Ronzini, Sensibile, Viberti October 1999
  7. Autoritratto
  8. Allucinazioni sahariane
  9. Via del quarantennio, 200 m., ED- 6, Schenone, Guastavano September 1997
  10. Sogno
  11. Madre Teresa
  12. Dirotta su Cuba, 400 m., ED 6c, Galizio, Sensibile, Viberti September 1997
  13. Doppia libidine, 180 m., TD-, Napoli, Biasotto giugno 1995
  14. Havana club, 360 m., ED 6c, Ronzini, Sensibile, Viberti September 1997
  15. Illusion, 360 m., ED- 6b, Ronzini, Sensibile, Viberti September 1998.
 Valasco Slabs
Valasco Slabs
[From 'Vie moderne (e non) nei dintorni del Piano del Valasco', by Francesco Bottero]